{"id":4799,"date":"2025-03-22T07:14:23","date_gmt":"2025-03-22T07:14:23","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/gunsandpride.com\/?p=4799"},"modified":"2025-03-22T07:14:23","modified_gmt":"2025-03-22T07:14:23","slug":"build-a-better-rimfire-rifle","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/gunsandpride.com\/?p=4799","title":{"rendered":"Build a Better Rimfire Rifle"},"content":{"rendered":"


\n<\/p>\n

\n

The Ruger 10\/22 .22 caliber self-loading rifle<\/a> is a firearm everyone should own, use, and enjoy. The 10\/22 is perhaps the best combination of reliability and economy in a rimfire rifle.<\/p>\n

While Ruger offers a good-quality takedown rifle and highly developed target versions of the 10\/22, the price leader, with a plastic stock and without sights, is available for just over two hundred dollars. It is supplied with an optics mounting rail and makes a good base for upgrades. The 10\/22 is a rifle that has been around the block. <\/p>\n

I have used it in training and small-game hunting. My Ruger rifles have proven completely reliable with quality ammunition. They seldom fail to function with even the cheapest dirty loads. Since it chambers the little giant of cartridges, the .22 Long Rifle, I can afford to fire it often and experiment with different loads.<\/p>\n

There are things about the Ruger that may be upgraded and things to leave alone. Ruger\u2019s rotary ten-round magazines are famously reliable, and the extended X magazines are a lot of fun to use. <\/p>\n

The original ten-round magazine doesn\u2019t protrude from the stock. I use that magazine for bench rest and target work and the X magazine for fun. I have worn out one .22 rotary magazine in fifty years! Stocks, optics, and the trigger action may be upgraded if you wish, and you may enjoy a great deal of improved accuracy. <\/p>\n

The Ruger is easily disassembled, a big plus. The rifle is a fine choice for beginners, but in this case, I am building a rifle for a more experienced shooter. <\/p>\n

Not so highly upgraded or specialized that it will not be useful as a go-anywhere, do-anything .22, but it is enough of an upgrade that what it does, it does very well.<\/p>\n

Tutorial<\/h2>\n

It is simple to disassemble the Ruger 10\/22. <\/p>\n

First, be sure the rifle is unloaded. Did I say unload the rifle? Double-check the chamber! <\/p>\n

Then, remove the barrel band. Loosen the retaining screw and bump the barrel band off. <\/p>\n

\n
the barrel band is easily removed<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n

A single bolt holds the action and stock together. Remove this bolt move the safety to the middle position to press the action from the stock. That\u2019s it. <\/p>\n

\n
\"remove
remove the stock screw for disassembly<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n

To install a custom trigger group turn the action upside down. Bump out the two action pins with a punch. Now here is the trick- some action pins simply fall out with little effort. <\/p>\n

\n
\"replace
This is one of the pins to be removed in order to replace the trigger action<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n

The newer guns with painted finish can be a pain. Use a punch and a rubber hammer to bump these pins out.\u00a0<\/p>\n

\n
\"Ruger
This is the rear pin that must be drifted out to replace the trigger action.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n

With the pins out simply pull the trigger group away. Next choose a quality aftermarket trigger group. I have long experience with Timney triggers.\u00a0 This rifle was fitted with a Timney Calvin Elite trigger<\/a>.<\/p>\n

The Calvin Elite features three trigger shoes that may be adjusted for height and cant. The factory setting is just over 2.0 pounds and very sharp with a rapid crips reset. <\/p>\n

\n
\"Ruger
Note the Timnet trigger\u2019s extended magazine release.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n

Take the trigger group and press it into place where the original trigger group once rested. Run the pins back in and you are done. <\/p>\n

The pins are easy to drop. A tarp or neutral color rug in the workplace is good to have. <\/p>\n

\n

Don\u2019t dry fire the trigger outside of the rifle. The springs will fly everywhere! That is how I learned to replace Ruger trigger springs. <\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n

Some improvement is possible by changing out the springs. A superior custom action is the better choice for greatest improvement. Once the trigger is assembled you may replace the action in the stock simply enough.\u00a0<\/p>\n

The interface between the rifle and the shooter could stand improvement. Factory stocks are ok, not bad, but not ideal either. They are made to fit many different body sizes. There are many good choices, the stock illustrated is my choice. <\/p>\n

Boyd\u2019s stocks<\/a> offer good-quality replacement sets for many rifles and custom-grade stocks suitable for hunting, tactical use, or competition. I selected the AT One laminate stock. You cannot fault it on looks. My rifle would be a target gun, maybe even falling into the simulated sniper-grade rifle niche for practice.<\/p>\n

\n
\"Ruger
The Boyd\u2019s stock offers plenty of adjustment<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n

The wood is cut and dried\u2014that\u2019s where the cut and dry expression originates in woodworking\u2014and finished in hard wood veneer. The finish is weather\u2014and chemical-resistant.<\/p>\n

\n
\"Ruger
Note the wide range of adjustment with the Boyd\u2019s stock.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n

The stock may be set for a length of pull from 12.5 to 14 inches. The comb offers considerable adjustment as well. It weighs about three pounds, which is about .5 pounds more than the plain Jane Ruger 10\/22 stock.<\/p>\n

There was no fitting at all, the barreled action simply went into place. The lines of the stock are pleasing to the eye and ergonomic fit and feel outstanding. I would not hesitate to use the rifle for small game hunting, informal target shooting, or some forms of competition. <\/p>\n

Adjustment is simple- press a plunger in the stock to adjust butt stock length or to raise the comb mounted cheek rest.<\/p>\n

Barrel Tech<\/h2>\n

Next, I considered the barrel. 10\/22 barrels are easy enough to change out. With the action removed from the rifle, look under the barrel near the chamber. <\/p>\n

\n
\"Ruger
the barrel is easily replaced.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n

Two screws are holding the barrel in place. Carefully twist these out. The difficult part is slowly turning the Allen wrench. The barrel will usually bump out easily. But not always! <\/p>\n

Some of the newer rifles with a different finish may be troublesome. Bumping the barrel with a rubber hammer will loosen them up.<\/p>\n

\n
\"removing
The barrel is easily changed; two bolts hold it in place.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n

Sometimes, the receiver must be stabilized in a padded vise. I choose a Beyer barrel<\/a>. Mine is a midweight fluted aluminum barrel. <\/p>\n

\n
\"Ruger
I really like the Beyer barrel\u2019s contour.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n

I will copy some of the details from the Bayer website<\/a>\u2014<\/p>\n